Crostata dough, Concord grape and McIntosh apple filling, cider caramel sauce, candied walnuts and brown butter gelato by Kierin Baldwin, Pastry Chef of Locanda Verde in New York, NY.
Served with cider caramel, candied walnuts and brown butter gelato.
Yield: 10 servings
- 16.2 oz/460 g all-purpose flour
- 1.2 oz/35 g whole wheat flour
- 0.7 oz/20 g stone ground cornmeal
- 0.5 oz/12 g granulated sugar
- 0.35 oz/10 g kosher salt
- 1 lb/454 g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and kept cold
- 1 large egg yolk
- 2 large eggs
- 2.3 oz/65 g whole milk
Combine the first five ingredients in the bowl of a mixer and add the cubed butter. Mix with the paddle until the butter has broken down slightly and the dry mixture looks sandy. (There will still be large pieces of butter, though.) Whisk together the milk, yolk and eggs and slowly pour it into the bowl with the mixer on low. Mix until the dough just begins to gather around the paddle. Shape the dough into a block and allow it to rest for at least 2 hours before rolling out.
Concord Grape and McIntosh Apple Filling:
- 31.7 oz/900 g peeled, cored McIntosh apples
- 3.17 oz/90 g turbinado sugar
- 1 Tbs cider vinegar
- 2.1 oz/60 g apple cider
- 1 Tbs tapioca starch
- 1 Tbs cornstarch
- ¼ tsp kosher salt
- 0.5 oz/15 g unsalted butter
- 2.8 oz/80 g golden raisins
- 5.3 oz/150 g halved and seeded Concord grapes
1. Cut the apples into thin half slices and toss them with the sugar and cider vinegar. Put them in a warm place for at least and hour to release their juices.
2. Once they have let a fair amount of juice out, drain the juice off the apples and set the solids aside in a bowl. Make a slurry with the drained juice, cider, tapioca starch, cornstarch and salt and put in a saucepot. Cook over medium/high heat, whisking continuously, until the starch has thickened and the mixture is somewhat translucent. Add the butter and whisk it in just enough to melt it. Add the thickened juice to the apple solids and fold in and then fold in the raisins followed by the seeded concord grapes. Allow filling to cool before assembling the crostata.
1. Preheat a convection oven with 350oF with the fan on high. Divide the crostata dough into 10 pieces and roll out to 7” rounds. (You can also sheet the entire block and cut into 6” rounds. The dough can be rerolled one time.)
2. Brush the outer edge of the circle with egg wash and place a heaping quarter cup of filling in the center of each circle. Fold the edge of the dough up and just slightly over the filling, gently pinching each fold together. Gently press the entire folded edge of the circle down on top of the filling to set it in place. Repeat with remaining rounds of dough, placing them on a sheet lined with parchment. Once they are all assembled, place them in the freezer for about 10 minutes to firm up the dough and then put them directly into the oven and bake for 24-30 minutes, rotating the tray after 12 minutes. They are done when the filling is bubbling and the crostata dough is golden brown and crisped. They can be cooled for 5 minutes and then plated or cooled completely and reheated until warm before plating.
Cider Caramel Sauce:
(Yield: ½ pint)
- 13.2 oz/375 g granulated sugar
- 4.4 oz/125 g apple cider
- 0.88 oz/25 g Calvados
- 1 tsp fresh lemon juice
Make a dry caramel with the granulated sugar. As soon as all the sugar has melted but before it begins to foam or smoke, turn off the heat and deglaze with the apple cider followed by the Calvados and lemon juice. Turn the heat back on and bring back up to bubbling to dissolve any caramel left on the pot, and then pass through a fine mesh strainer and cool over ice. Bring up to room temperature to use for plating.
- 4.4 oz/125 g walnuts, roughly chopped
- 0.88 oz/25 g simple syrup
- 1/8 tsp kosher salt
Preheat oven to 325º F. Mix all of the ingredients together until the nuts are completely coated and then spread on a half sheet pan with a silicone baking mat. Bake until they are golden brown and the syrup is no longer sticky and wet, about 8-12 minutes.
Brown Butter Gelato:
- 8.4 oz/240 g unsalted butter
- 23.45 oz/665 g whole milk
- 11.8 oz/335 g heavy cream
- 3 oz/85 g trimoline
- 1.2 oz/35 g granulated sugar
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 0.5 oz/15 g glucose powder
- 0.88 oz/25 g nonfat powdered milk
- 0.35 oz/10 g Cremodan 30 ice cream stabilizer
1. Over high heat, melt the butter and then continue cooking, stirring occasionally until the milk solids have reached a deep brown color. Turn off the heat and pour in the milk and heavy cream. Pour the entire mixture into a bain marie and chill over ice until the butter has formed a solid mass at the top of the liquid. Allow to infuse for at least 6 hours.
2. Separate the butter solids from the liquid, first by pulling the solid layer of butter off the top and then by running the liquid through a strainer to catch any stray bits of butter. Discard butter solids. Put the liquid back into a pot and add the trimoline. Mix together the last five ingredients. Bring up over high heat until it is just hot to the touch and then whisk in the combined dry ingredients. Bring up to a full boil, whisking occasionally to prevent scorching. Once it has reached boiling, turn of the heat and pass through a fine mesh strainer. Cool over ice. Allow the base to rest for at least 12 hours, then freeze in an ice cream or gelato machine.
Spoon a generous amount of cider caramel onto the plate. Place the warmed crostata on the plate. Place a few candied walnuts together to hold the gelato and then scatter a few more walnuts on the plate. Quenelle the gelato and place on top of the candied walnuts.