"Michael Laiskonis, Creative Director, Institute of Culinary Education in New York, NY, shares his Chocolate – Sweet Potato recipe in the DessertProfessional.com Dessert Trio column."
In DessertProfessional.com's latest issue, the Dessert Trio column features three different dessert perspectives on sweet potato, from three top pastry chefs, François Payard, Michael Laiskonis and Angela Pinkerton. Click the following to see recipes and notes by:
François Payard | Angela Pinkerton
Notes: Sweet potato is one of my favorite vegetables to incorporate into autumn desserts, as it stands up to so many other warm and intense flavors. For the sorbet and the agar pearls, I like to roast whole sweet potatoes until the natural sugars begin to ooze out and caramelize on the pan before peeling and passing through a tamis.
Yield: about 20 servings
Sweet Potato Sorbet:
- 7.5 oz/215 g granulated sugar, divided
- 0.14 oz/4 g sorbet stabilizer
- 17.6 oz/500 g water
- ½ vanilla bean, split and scraped
- 1.76 oz/50 g glucose powder
- 14 oz/400 g roasted sweet potato purée
1. Combine 1.76 oz/50 g of the sugar and the stabilizer.
2. Heat the water and vanilla to 120˚F. Whisk in the stabilizer mixture, then remaining 5.8 oz/165 g sugar and glucose; bring to a boil for about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and chill; allow syrup to mature for at least 4 hours.
3. Combine purée and syrup and process in batch freezer; extract the mix at 23˚F. Alternatively, transfer to PacoJet canisters and freeze; process as needed.
- 13.2 oz/375 g dark chocolate couverture, 70%, chopped
- 21.16 oz/600 g heavy cream
- 1.76 oz/50 g glucose syrup
- 0.07 oz/2 g fine sea salt
- 3.5 oz/100 g water
- 0.09 oz/2.5 g agar agar
- 3 sheets gelatin (160 bloom), hydrated
1. Place chocolate in a mixing bowl and reserve. In a saucepan, combine the cream with the glucose and salt; bring to a boil.
2. Meanwhile combine water and agar in a small saucepan and gently bring to a boil. Reduce heat and hold at a simmer for 2 minutes.
3. Once cream has boiled, remove from heat and gradually incorporate into the chocolate. Follow with the agar mixture. Add the gelatin, homogenize with a hand blender, and transfer to silicone forms. Freeze.
- 0.35 oz/10 g gelatin powder (225 bloom)
- 1.4 oz/40 g cold water
- 4.6 oz/132 g granulated sugar
- 3.3 oz/95 g glucose syrup, divided
- 2.1 oz/60 g water
- 0.17 oz/5 g lemon juice
- Dextrose powder, as needed
1. Hydrate the gelatin with cold water in the bowl of an electric stand mixer; reserve.
2. Combine sugar, 1.76 oz/50 g of the glucose syrup, and water in a saucepan and cook to 230°F.
3. Meanwhile, add the remaining 1.58 oz/45 g glucose, and lemon juice to the mixer bowl with the hydrated gelatin, fitted with the whip attachment.
4. Pour the sugar syrup over the gelatin mixture and whip on high speed for 5-7 minutes.
5. Pour into a pan or frame lined with plastic film that has been coated with non-stick spray and allow to set.
6. Cut into desired shape and size and lightly dust with dextrose powder.
Sweet Potato Pearls:
- 8.1 oz/230 g water, divided
- 1.4 oz/40 g granulated sugar
- ½ vanilla bean, split and scraped
- 6.3 oz/180 g roasted sweet potato purée
- 0.05 oz/1.5 g agar agar
- 0.01 oz/0.3 g locust bean gum
1. To prepare the base, combine 2.8 oz/80 g of the water with the sugar and vanilla in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and whisk into the sweet potato purée. Reserve warm.
2. Meanwhile, combine the remaining 5.3 oz/150 g water and agar agar in a small saucepan and gently bring to a boil. Reduce heat and hold at a simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and incorporate into the sweet potato base.
3. Transfer the mixture to a squeeze bottle and drop into cold vegetable oil (40°F), allowing 5-10 minutes to set. Drain well and chill.
- 4.2 oz/120 g granulated sugar
- 1.4 oz/40 g water
- 3.5 oz/100 g crispy rice cereal
- 1.76 oz/50 g unsalted butter
1. Place sugar in a medium sauté pan and moisten with water. Over medium heat, cook until nearly all water has evaporated, but before it begins to color.
2. Add cereal and gently stir to coat with sugar. Continue cooking and stirring as sugar crystallizes, begins to melt, and caramelizes.
3. When most of the sugar has re-melted and coated the cereal, remove from heat and stir in the butter, gently yet thoroughly. Transfer to a Silpat or parchment to cool. Store in a tightly covered container.
Red Wine Caramel:
- 4.4 oz/125 g granulated sugar
- Water, as needed
- 7 oz/200 g red wine
1. Combine sugar and water to moisten in a saucepan. Cook just until the mixture turns a light amber color.
2. Remove from heat and slowly add wine. Return to heat and continue to cook to 221˚F. Allow to cool and transfer to a squeeze bottle.
- Sicilian Pistachios
- Chocolate Décor
Unmold and temper the Chocolate Cremeux and place onto each plate. Garnish with pieces of Marshmallow, Caramelized Rice, Sweet Potato Pearls, pistachios, and chocolate décor. Finish with the Sweet Potato Sorbet and Red Wine Caramel.