"Michael Laiskonis, Creative Director, Institute of Culinary Education in New York, NY, shares his Soft Caramel recipe in the DessertProfessional.com Dessert Trio column."
In DessertProfessional.com's latest issue, the Dessert Trio column features three different dessert perspectives on caramel, from three top pastry chefs, François Payard, Michael Laiskonis and Angela Pinkerton. Click the following to see recipes and notes by:
François Payard | Angela Pinkerton
Notes: Caramelization is - when you really think about it - that moment when cooked sugar begins to break down and decompose. Thankfully, that chemical meltdown is delicious. This classic soft confection owes its flavor not only to caramelization, but also to complex Maillard reactions of the lactose and proteins in the cream. The added cocoa butter enhances the texture by firming up the consistency and inhibiting stickiness.
Yield: 60 servings
- 14.8 oz/420 g heavy cream (35% fat)
- 8.8 oz/250 g glucose syrup
- 1 oz/30 g invert sugar
- 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
- 0.14 oz/4 g fine sea salt (more or less to preference of taste)
- 11.6 oz/330 g granulated sugar
- 0.5 oz/15 g cocoa butter
1. In a heavy saucepan, combine the cream, glucose, invert sugar, vanilla, and salt; gently heat and reserve. Remove the vanilla pod.
2. In a second saucepan, cook the sugar to a medium amber caramel. Remove from heat and carefully deglaze with the warm cream mixture, in multiple additions, and cook to 245°F (118°C), stirring occasionally. When temperature is achieved, remove from heat and stir in the cocoa butter to fully incorporate.
3. Pour the caramel into a plastic film-lined 20 cm square frame (or into set of heavy caramel bars lined with a Silpat) and cool several hours before cutting and wrapping.